Ancient Lake, Lake Biwa

Lake Biwa is the largest lake in Japan and the largest water source in the Kansai region. The Seta River that flows out of it changes to the Uji and Yodo Rivers, and supports the many rich lives of the Kansai region.

Lake Biwa is also known as an ancient lake, meaning it has existed for over a million years (other examples of ancient lakes include the Caspian Sea and Lake Baikal).

Lake Biwa has existed for approximately 4 million years, and it is said that it took on its present shape some 400,000 years ago. The ancient lake is home to many species endemic to the area, and offers a pristine landscape that is symbolic of Japan- an island nation rich in water resources.

To the south of Lake Biwa are two of the most representative cities in western Japan, Kyoto and Osaka. Kyoto has flourished as the imperial capital since ancient times, while Osaka has prospered as a merchant city. It would be no exaggeration to say that the prosperity of ancient Japan was supported by the abundant water source of Lake Biwa.

Incidentally, Enryaku-ji Temple on Mount Hiei, a headquarter of Buddhism and the birthplace of many distinct sects of Buddhism in Japan, as well as Azuchi Castle, built by Oda Nobunaga in his ambition to unify the country, are also located on the shores of Lake Biwa.

Lake Biwa has two names, Nanko in the south and Kitako in the north. Together they are 200km long, and Kitako is 160km long. Although the distances are different, cycling around Lake Biwa is commonly referred to as “Biwaichi” by Japanese cyclists.

The road surfaces along Biwaichi are well maintained, making it easy even for beginners to ride, and you can enjoy a beautiful range of scenery along the route. There are also many famous merchants to stop by in the surrounding area, making it one of Japan’s leading cycling spots.

The new Doppo Ronin had just been completed, so I planned a two-day, overnight ride up the Biwaichi mountain pass to take part in the Mountain Trail Festival on the shores of Lake Biwa, which would also double as a shakedown rider for this versatile new bike.

Digitaless

The theme for this trip was the concept of “Digitaless.” In other words, I wanted to intentionally approach the ride without the use of any digital equipment.

A smartphone is prepared for emergencies and to check any uncertainties with the route, but it is generally turned off. No digital equipment is carried, and photos are recorded with a film camera.

There’s no need to access information from the web during a ride tour; you’d rather experience the place directly.

It’s not necessarily important to share your moments in an immediate manner, but rather to focus on finding out what this experience leaves with me.

What kind of moments can you capture on a film that is limited to 36 shots per roll? Of course, there will be some images that fall short, but that’s okay. In fact, that’s a good thing.

With a film camera, you can’t see the results and you can’t redo the shot, so you’re sure to capture the moment that moves you.

Biwaichi

In Japan, vehicles drive on the left side of the road, so the Biwaichi route runs counterclockwise. You can start from anywhere, but this time I started from Nagahama City on the eastern shore of Lake Biwa.

Nagahama City was once the base of operations for Hashiba Hideyoshi (later known as Toyotomi Hideyoshi) and is a place where old townscapes remain, but as we started late and considered the route to our planned accommodation, we opted to forego detours and hurried along our route.

The weather was overcast, but thanks to that, the place was shrouded in mist, creating a fantastical atmosphere.

Lake Biwa is also known for bass fishing.

Fishing is now enjoyed as recreation and sport, but it’s evident everywhere that the bountiful Lake Biwa has been an integral part of people’s lives since ancient times.

If you go around the lakeside counterclockwise from Nagahama, you will come across idyllic farmland and enter the area known as Kohoku.

The Kohoku area is home to the only pass in Biwaichi, with a tunnel at its crest.

We pass through the tunnel and enjoy a spirited downhill ride.

I’m curious about the side forest road, but I hurry to my destination.

A unique planter repurposed from an old boat.

Having travelled around the northern reach of the lake, we entered the western shore of the lake and headed towards today’s destination, Omi Maiko, with the famous torii gate of Shirahige Shrine standing on the lake on our left.

It was sunset when we reached our intended campsite.

Mountain Path Festival

The Yamamichi Festival is a community event held by Yama to Michi, a company that develops ultralight (UL) hiking wear. It is an annual event where hikers gather to enjoy the Bon Odori dance.

As the night draws on, people enjoy the Bon Odori dance and reuniting with friends they haven’t seen in a long time.

Simple and free space

The weather hadn’t been great the day before, and the forecast predicted cloudy to rainy weather for the entire trip, but the sun blessed us in the morning.

The contrast between the orange and deep navy was marvelous.

Colorful tents appear at dawn

The tent we used this time was the PB Tarp 8×10 from Jindaiji Mountain Works.

Why did I choose this model? The reason is super simple and somewhat superstitious- because the model name is Eight by Ten, which is the same name as the standard for large format cameras. I want to reduce my luggage as much as possible on my bicycle trips, so I basically only bring a covering. In the summer, I also carry a net to keep out insects, but unless I plan to stay at high altitudes on my bicycle trip or in extremely severe conditions such as in the north, I can usually get by with this.

Blending in with nature, and separated only by a single piece of cloth, he carved out a space to resemble a room, creating a minimalist living space for himself. The simple attitude of the tarp and the freedom of the ambiguous space evoke a sense of wabi and sabi, similar to the outdoor tea ceremony.

With Doppo Ronin

Lake Biwa has different expressions depending on the area.

The ruggedness of the northern part of Kohoku, the tranquility of the western part of Kohoku, and the deep history of the southern and eastern parts of Kohoku.

Each one is beautiful and tasteful.

For cyclists, this may be a course for beginners, but if your goal isn’t to get to your destination quickly, but rather to take detours while experiencing the local culture and history, then Biwaichi is a fantastic and worthy option.

Frame	SIMWORKS Doppo Ronin / Size : S
Headset	CHRIS KING NoThreadSet 1-1/8″/ Black Sotto Vocce
Handle	NITTO B132 ( Test Sample )
Stem	SIMWORKS Tomboy Stem / 90mm
Tire	SIMWORKS The Homage 650 × 55B
Rim	VELOCITY Cliff Hanger
Spoke	SIMWORKS Peregrine Spoke – 14 Straight Gauge
Main Group	MICRO SHIFT / SWORD
Saddle	STEVE POTTS / Chinook Saddle
Seat Post	SIMWORKS Beatnik Seatpost / 300mm
Pedal	MKS for Circles / Gordito Brass Black paint